San José, Costa Rica, Friday 05 February  2010


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CARIBBEAN CRUISING

In the Caribbean Sea, there are many places from where the folly of the cruise ship experience can be taken in. But there are two perches that really give some insight if one allows the time to watch attentively.

The first is Saint Thomas on the U.S. Virgin Islands. A strange place, albeit a US territory. While most automobiles on the island are non-British, meaning their steering wheel is on the left hand side, the rules of the road are Brit and thus left-hand traffic is the norm. It seems most participants in this chaos use a combination of dumb luck and faith-based road rage to conquer the many blind corners this arrangement creates.

From any hotel or guesthouse situated on the harbor-side of the island, the view is splendid. On the right, the side of the marina, the practically non-stop coming and going of seaplanes gives you the instant sense of being a subject of Buffettania, a partaker and insider of a country where your citizenship is legitimized by the amount of tequila and rum you're consuming.

On the left side where Long Bay is, the cruise ships dock. While the seaplanes are rather small island hoppers, these tourist boats are floating mammoths that dwarf even the considerable arrival terminals adjacent the lengthy piers on which they tie down for the day.

From a distance on the hillside, enjoying a tropical beverage, it all looks wonderful and picturesque. The town of Charlotte Amalie seems a gem. But if you take the trouble and descent from your spot into town, the proximity reveals a harsh reality of aggressive merchandising that would make a telemarketer jealous.

What appears as historic streets and island style architecture from afar, turns into an endless arrangement of t-shirts-, caps-, towels-, goofy hats- and novelties shops when nigh. And with at least one of the floating fun parks in town, its inhabitants are descending upon these wares like tribes upon a box of mirrors and beads. It's ironic to see Asian tourists walk off with trinkets that have been manufactured in China. For those with serious spending plans, there are stores advertising tax-free prices for jewelry, precious gems, silver and gold. Even myrrh is available in the form of cologne, after shave and perfumes. Some real, some not so real.

On Sint Maarten, the Dutch side of a tiny land mass shared with the petite French Saint Martin, a similar scene takes place. While it has managed to maintain a shred of its heritage and culture, the same crap is pawned off to willing tourists. Unlike the 'Havensight Mall and Shopping Center' on St. Thomas, there are no air-conditioned strip malls - yet. Unfortunately they is some construction in that inauspicious direction.

In the evening, the masses trudge back from this tropical Trader's Eden to the big boat with the free food and organized amusement.
And this is where it get even worse.

With much fanfare and tooting of its massive horn, the ship trumpets its departure to everyone within earshot. Pretty much the entire island. And as the sun sets, it points its bow away from Great Bay and with a final hoot, picks up speed and turns on all of its outside lights. This really is a pretty sight.

But if one would take the trouble and scooter to the highest point on the island, one can see the party vessel slow down and just float, like the captain has parked it for the night. On board, passengers are enjoying a refreshing shower after the dusty shopping and then head for the bar, the disco or, if you're 'lucky', the captain's table. It is announced that the next port will be made by early morning.

From St. Thomas, you can see St. Croix and weather permitting, Puerto Rico. From Philipsburg without leaving Great Bay beach, you can see Saba and Sint Eustatius. Take a little hike and enjoy views of Anguilla and St. Barts. But these seafaring landlubbers believe themselves on a true voyage, a trip across a vast ocean to a far away port. While the cruise line is idling the ship's engines merely to keep the lights blaring, one could take a rowboat and beat them to the next terminus.

The next destination: Another haven filled with shops containing the same gaudy geegaws and knickknacks that were left behind. As these boats get bigger, the cash-cow attitude of the brains behind these schemes results in much less enjoyment of destinations that become, eventually, all the exact same, having lost their culture and identity and victimized by a tourist industry that prefers to increase profits rather than maintaining the local charm and character that gave them the upstart in the first place.

Maybe the current economic downturn will slow this decay to the point of pause. That would be nice but it is doubtful. While many consider themselves not rich enough right now to undertake a voyage this 'lavish', they maintain a level of wealth unfathomable to the friendly people who served them on the islands.


 
 

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- Enrique's Magic  - Part 1
- Enrique's Magic  - Part 2
 
Enrique's Magic  - Part 3

- Broker Than...
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- Enrique's Business: Part One
- The Power of Profanity
- Enrique's Business: Part Two
- Peking Duck
- Technology and the Rain Forest
- Fighting Dirty
- Pieces of the Shuttle
- Other Side of the Clouds
- My Lucky Pen
- Good for Survivors
- A Swimming Lesson
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