My Day Trip to Nicaragua
Many of my friends think I am nuts. And they may be right. Yesterday morning
(Sunday) I awoke early as usual and after updating the insidecostarica.com
pages, I decided I wasn't going to spend another "usual" Sunday in San José - a
walk to downtown with my dogs, some lunch, a little more walking around town,
then head home to relax the legs and to bed early.
No this Sunday would be different.
So, I called my good Italian friend who typically would take the downtown walk with
me and the dogs to head off for a day in Nicaragua!
He had lived in San Juan del Sur, a short distance from the Nicaragua/Costa Rica
border and had talked so much about it. I
only had the occasion to visit him once in San Juan while he was living there
and only for brief stop from my trip to Managua
back to San José.
This would be a great day to have some fish at the small Nicaraguan
beach town and soak in some local culture, not to mention of the
adventure of the trip.
I had never done this in one day. My usual duration was from 3 to 4
days, visiting Managua and Granada, where I could bump in to some old
acquaintances that I had made in San José.
The bag was packed and ready to go. Actually, all that was in my bad is
a pair of jeans and sweater in case it got cold on the way back, which
would be at night.
At 6:30, the car was gassed up and we were off on our day adventure. My
idea was to pass by the Tempisque Bridge, the new bridge that connects
the Nicoya Peninsula in place of the ferry ride that was the norm for
many years.
The trip north through the InterAmerican highway was eventless, save for the
cow that strayed and a couple of locals on a truck trying to lasso
it.
I had traveled this stretch of road many times, but never had seen
so many
cows on the road. Of course, needless to say, they take the right of way. Maybe
this is a way of slowing down traffic. Instead of using police and
police cars parked along the way, just let loose a few cows and
"bam" you have instant slowdown.
It seems we fear cows more than a police officer with a radar gun
and ticket book in hand. Or those nasty potholes!
The detour through the Nicoya Peninsula added about 1/2 hour to the
trip. I could have gone straight up the InterAmerican, but then I
would have missed out on the great German bakery that makes the best
pastries in Costa Rica and the only soft pretzels worth talking
about. |
Vendors on the Costa Rican
side with no customers!
Want a ride to Managua? |
I don't remember the name, nor have I ever paid attention to it. It's a
few minutes form the Liberia airport.
There was a line at the border, mainly due to an overzealous police
officer intent on keeping everyone out in the heat rather than in the
cool, air conditioned room of the immigration office. The idea was to
not overwork the air conditioners, that adds costs to the immigration
service.
My concern was were to ditch the car so as to make the walk across the
border. There is now, conveniently, a 24hr parking lot just next to the
police sub-command. My idea had been, if there was no parking, I would
leave the car with the police. I am sure it would be safe with them. No?
San Juan del Sure beach!
San Juan del Sur streets and
local market! |
Crossing the border, all checked out of Costa Rica and checked into
Nicaragua - the land of
volcanoes and lakes as the sign so proudly announces, we hired a taxi that would
quote a $15 fare, though the real fare is $10 to those who know, for the 1/2
hire to
San Juan del Sur.
San Juan is small tourist community that could have been Costa Rica some 20 or
more years back. I wasn't in Costa Rica then, but I can use my imagination to
the progress that occurred. Only two hours from Managua by bus or
car, San Juan is the poor man's beach, while the rich go to
Montelimar, a little further north.
After a nice lunch of fish - I had the red snapper with a tomato sauce, my
friend enjoyed a fish fillet in garlic sauce - we
took a small walk around town to take in some local flavour and watch people
have fun on the beach. Our taxi man was waiting on us, tough we had asked for
him to return at
a specific time, he chose to wait it out since there was not much in the way of
other fares.
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At border to leave Nicaragua was our real first taste of the current
administration's
effect on government employees. W were told by the immigration officers we
could not come and leave on the same day. We would need to stay in Nicaragua a
minimum of 72
hours before we could leave. What? Are we being held hostage? What if I don't
like your country and want to get out of here?
Hey, were is the bossman? I want to talk to him.
The officer in the next window, now attentively listening to my conversation,
discussion actually with his co-worker, asked me to come to the side door and in
a calm and gentle voice explained me the rules.
I could go to the immigration boss but he would tell me the same
thing, you need to stay a minimum of 72 hours before you can leave. |
Leaving Nicarauga! |
But, HE could help me.
Come back to the window and in making donation - no amount mentioned or
hinted at - he could help me and my friend.
The fee on Sundays to check out of
Nicaragua is $4, there is no cost on weekdays and Saturdays. So, for a donation
of an extra $6 each, for a total of $10 each, we were now checked out of Nicaragua and on
our way home.
I know there is no such rule, it's incredulous that a country would even
make up such a rule, but it was a slow day at the border. We were the
only foreigners there, no bus loads of travelers to check out, so why
not take advantage of us. Whom are we going to complain to?
Normally I would have put up a fuss and argued to the end. However, the
intent was a "day" trip and if I spent time arguing - an argument which
I know I would win - I ran the risk of getting late and finding the
Costa Rica immigration office closed.
It closes at 8:00pm, they know that, and with that in hand I could find
myself winning the argument but having to spend the extra time in
Nicaragua in any case.
Our journey back to San José was easy and uneventful. I feared heavy traffic -
all those who would have taken in the last few days of summer vacation, before
the kids go back to school. Though that was not the case.
We breezed right
through the
most congested points near San Ramon/Palmares area and no traffic at all by the
airport. The airport area alone can take more than 1/2 hour in congested
traffic.
In the end, in 16 hours I logged more than 400 miles, checked in and out
and out and in to Nicaragua and Costa Rica, had a great pastry, an excellent fish
lunch, paid off some bribes for something that doesn't make any sense and was
home to bed to get ready for the grind of the next day.
A day trip to Nicaragua is not for weak, but a great adventure, if only for a
brief moment in time. I truly recommended it!
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